Monday, February 1, 2016

The Lake That Vanished


Yes. There was a lake that disappeared almost completely. It was bigger than the state of West Virginia (US); almost three times the size of the state of New Jersey (US); bigger than Sri Lanka and almost as big as Ireland. In Indian terms, it was 1.75 times bigger than Kerala and more than half the size of Tamil Nadu. In just 30 years the lake of 26,300 sq. miles (68,200 sq.km) disappeared, leaving only 10% of it on the face of the earth! This is the story of the Aral lake in Central Asia. The Satans here are not some supernatural powers, but avaricious human beings. And Mother Nature taught them a lesson for others to know what it would be like if we wreak havoc on her.



The Aral Sea, shared by Kazakhstan in the north and Uzbekistan in south, was not a sea but an inland salt water body that sustained the people and the flora and fauna of these countries  for
thousands of years. Because of its vastness and saltiness people used to call it ‘sea’. The Aral Sea was the 4th largest lake in the world after the Caspian Sea, Lake Superior and Lake Victoria. The word ‘Aral’ means archipelago/islands in Turkic languages.

The collapse of the Soviet Union gave birth to five counties in Central Asia with a combined area of 4 million sq.km. Kazakhstan is the largest (68%) and Uzbekistan is the smallest (11%). The other countries are Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan. Central Asia, by and large, is arid and has two large deserts, the Kara Kum (Black Sand) and Kyzyl Kum (Red Sand). The area of the Kara Kum has increased due to the disappearance of the Aral Sea.

Two mighty rivers of Central Asia coming from Tajikistan in the east were feeding the Aral Sea. The Syr Darya originates in the Tian Shan mountains and flows through Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. ‘Darya’ means river/stream in Central Asian languages as well as in Urdu and 
Syr and Amu Rivers
Hindi. After a 2,212 km (1,374 miles) journey, the Syr enters the Aral Sea from the north. The other river Amu Darya, formed by the Vakhan (Vakshu in Sanskrit) and Panj rivers, too starts in Tajikistan, from the Hindu Kush/Pamir mountains and travels 2,400 km (1,500 miles) through Afghanistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan, ending up in a dam 110 km east of the Aral Sea. (Remember that the length of the Ganges is 2,510 km). The rivers get thinner as they flow eastward, thanks to the arid terrain and harsh dry climate. Loss of water through evaporation is quite heavy all along their routes. Seepage in to the arid lands too drains the rivers. However, till about 1960, the Amu too had emptied its waters in to the Aral Sea from the south. The Panj river forms the border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan.

The Aral Sea is a kind of basin from which water can escape only through seepage and evaporation. Seepage takes place only in the upper areas of the basin and such water eventually evaporates in to the air. There is no way water in the lake can diffuse (spread deeper) in to the earth and reach the oceans of the world because the lake’s bottom is lined with a thick layer of salt and other minerals precipitated over thousands of years. The source of salt and minerals is the desert itself. The water is always saline, but the salinity used to be reduced by constant supply of water which both the Syr and Amu rivers provided till man fiddled with the system.

Towards the end of 1950’s, with a view to improving irrigation, especially cotton production, the Soviet Union constructed dams and canals in the two rivers, reducing the volume of water reaching the Aral Sea. By 1980, water flow had stopped. The Amu ended in a small dam, 110 km away from the lake. Water still trickles in to the lake from the Syr due to the damage control now being done by Kazakhstan.

The Aral Sea once supported more than 24 species of fish, over 200 macroinvertebrates (organisms that lack a spine and are large enough to be seen with the naked eye) and 180 land animal species including antelopes, desert foxes etc. Pelicans, flamingoes and other migratory birds frequented the area. Fishing was a large industry, with hauls up to 40,000 tons each year. There were large fish processing plants. 1/6th of the USSR’s fish consumption was provided by the Aral fishermen. Since the lake had depths varying from 38 to 140 ft., there used to be large fishing vessels, some more than 100 ft. long and capable of carrying about 40 crew. There was even a Soviet military base on Vozrozhdenie island. There were nearly two dozen villages and a couple of towns that depended on the economy raised by the lake. Cattle, poultry and horticulture brought reasonably good income for the people. The Uzbek town of Muynak (Mo’ynoq) had a population of 41,000 and the Kazkh town of Aralsk (previously called Aral) had about 80,000. The low and high temperatures of the desert lands were softened by the Aral Sea.

In to the 1980’s, the ‘intense agriculture-irrigation development’ began leaving its adverse marks. With not enough waters available down, the rivers started shrinking and the inevitable happened. The Aral Sea started shrinking. The salt content of the lake water increased. Fish 
Ships and Ships of the Desert
disappeared. Fishing vessels were left on the dry lakelake bed to rust. The land animals and vegetation too vanished. So did the migratory birds. Camels, the ship of the desert, now walk on the lake bed glaring at the corpses of the vessels that once sailed in the lake. Animals including camels perished after eating shrubs that had high salt content. The toxic chemicals and fertilizers deposited earlier from the furiously cultivated fields of the river basins but did not affect the environment due to the huge volume of the water in the lake were now being moved by dry winds along with sand dust to hundreds of kilometers. People started migrating to other areas. Those who did not, became sick. Cardiac, renal and respiratory diseases and cancer made their appearance. Farmlands were being gradually swallowed by the desert. Rains, which were scarce, became scarcer. Summers were hotter and winters colder. The 4th largest lake in the world was becoming history. Even now spring comes late and winter early. Gradually, nature had begun the process of hitting back.

The ‘scientists-turned-Satans’ moulded by the communist regime were insensitive to the changes. They contended that they were aware of the repercussions of the intensive irrigation projects in the upper areas of the river basins. ‘The Aral Sea itself was a nature’s mistake’, they declared. There were no correctional measures. They had even suggested the Aral people be shifted to other areas! Besides, the discovery of gas underneath the lake lake bed made the Soviets focus on new opportunities.

Then the political history of the region changed, making matters worse. In 1991, the Soviet Union was formally dissolved. With each to its own, the new nations did not care about the lake. 
The Kazakhs, endowed with heavy deposits of gas and oil elsewhere, were only concerned with the northern part. They were the richer of the two. By 2020, their oil output may take them to the list of top ten oil producers. The poorer Uzbeks in the south did not know what to do with the dry lake bed. Its major produce is cotton which is labour-intensive.

By 1995, the lake had split in to four - the northern and southern lakes as well as two small ‘pools’ on the east and west. A little later, the eastern ‘pool’ too disappeared. By 2005, the area 
Then and Now
of northern lake was barely 3,300 sq.km and the southern lake, 3,500 sq. km. Together, 6,800 sq. km of what was once a 68,200 sq. km lake!Whatever left of the lake is now scores of miles away from the once-thriving villages and towns.

Enter the UN, offering millions of dollars. The five Central Asian countries formed a council for ‘joint management of water’ in 1991 that led to the formation of an organization for better management of resources, the International Fund for Saving the Aral Sea (IFSA) established in 1993. In 2005, a dam was constructed at the southern border of the northern lake with UN assistance. Though the height was hardly 4 m, within eight months, it started overflowing. This water level was not enough for the lake to reach the villages and towns in the north. By raising the height of the dam - but preventing the water from reaching the southern part – the north Aral Sea may grow considerably by 2020. Some of the fish have now made a comeback. Fishing has been revived to a small extent. Some animals have come back. Migratory birds 
have again included the area in their itinerary. Vegetation too is back in a small way. The northern lake is again on the tourist map of Kazakhstan. The food-chain system ‘has been limping back’ to normalcy. Above all, the salinity of the water has reduced almost to the level of 1960! There is hope at last in the north, even if it may take a little longer to restore the northern lake to its original glory.

For the southern Aral Sea, any hope of revival rests on the will power of the Uzbek government. There is no significant change in the situation in Uzbekistan. The Amu river is still far off the lake. Cotton and wheat, incidentally, need more water than any other crop. They did not want to disturb the irrigation network, though better schemes for use of water has been developed. Varieties that need less water are being used in agriculture. Eco-friendlier fertilizers and pesticides have been introduced. The government is allegedly not showing much interest to fill the lake with water, having discovered oil and gas deposits under the lake bed. A dry landscape is more convenient for extracting petroleum products. The Uzbek government is also notorious for its forced labour system, the only one of its kind in the world. Those who do not pick cotton are penalized with 50% of their pension, educational and health assistance! The World Bank has sanctioned projects worth $500 million for Uzbekistan. Human rights activists believe that the World Bank and the UN know of the forced labour policy of the government. Just to placate them the World Bank has now threatened to suspend financial assistance to the government, if they get evidence of forced labour. The Nobel-winning Medecins Sans Frontiers (Medicine Without Frontiers) have been implementing health programs for the Aral people.

Satellite pictures still show that the Aral Sea has not gained much in the last two decades. Minor improvements around the north Aral Sea notwithstanding, the conditions are still worrisome.

Arala Lake (Jan 2016_ - Google Earth)
The region still reels under nature’s vengeance. There is no improvement in climatic conditions. The material available so far on the work being done to save the Aral Sea is not widely available. Most of the data pertains to pre-2012. The current status is unclear.

There are many lakes like the Aral Sea which do not allow diffusion of water. There can be continuous or occasional shrinkage of such lakes depending on natural elements and climate. Evaporation is the main cause. The Chad lake in Africa shrank to 10% of its original size and remained so for decades and then started growing again. The Tulare Lake in USA disappeared because of diversion of water through irrigation projects and the Urmia Lake in Iran shrank considerably due to the same reasons. Lake Fucino in Italy was drained off completely in the 19th century to use the basin for agriculture. But these were all small to tiny lakes, with only the Chad Lake being economically important. Millions of years ago, lakes in the Sahara and Arizona deserts too dried up naturally, according to geologists. But what sets the Aral Sea apart is its huge size and the economy it can sustain. Its utility has been not understood properly by man and timely efforts were not made to save it.

Writes ‘Water United’ (http://www.waterunites-ca.org/):

“In the southern part, the Uzbek government took measures to sustain the wetlands in the delta area of the Amu Darya. Nevertheless, the desiccation continues. Today, there is no hope that 
the entire Aral Sea can be resuscitated: the water flow it would require would cause
UN Secretary General Ban Ki Moon Watching the Graveyard of Ships (April 2010)

catastrophic social disruptions along the two rivers. When UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon visited Muynak at the former southern shore in April 2010, he called the depletion of the Aral Sea one of the worst environmental disasters of the world, and a vivid testament to what happens when we waste our common natural resources, when we neglect our environment, when we mismanage our environment”.

The disappearance of the Aral Sea is the greatest man-made disaster.

The Ganga-Kavery Link Canal Project, India

Similar projects elsewhere can also ring death knell for environment. The UN had handed over its report on the Ganga-Kavery Link Canal Project in India many years ago to the government of India but it has drawn flak from environmentalists. The project envisages linking of not only the Ganges and Kavery but over 10 rivers, perhaps, in as many as 25 states. A few years ago it was reported the 10-year project might cost about Rs 5,60,000 crores. The drought-prone areas - from Rajasthan to Bihar and down south in Tamil Nadu - need to be readied for large scale agricultural and industrial development if India has to alleviate poverty, if not eradicate. Inadequate monsoon rains, absence of modern irrigation systems, overuse of fertilizers and the immensely hot temperature which crosses 500 C in summer make these areas unfriendly for agriculture. Water is so scarce that even daily chores of people are held up; healthy life and hygiene are still distant dreams. Farmers commit suicide by the hundreds. The Canal project, which will have a network of 2500-3500 km depending on how it is implemented, is a necessity since it provides for power generation too. What are the impacts of this project? Who knows what has nature in store for future generations? Sufficient information has not been disclosed to the public. The government has sought private participation in the project and this might erode the confidence of the people and even the UN, given the track record of the Indian private sector and the scams it is figuring in. ‘It may be an engineer’s dream, but an environmentalist’s nightmare’.

*****
Feb 02, 2016


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